Machine Applique

Applique means "to apply" and applique in quilting means to apply one or more fabrics on top of the other. Apply the applique by machine or by hand. This article looks at two machine applique techniques: raw edge applique and turn under applique. The two most popular machine applique stitches are the zig zag stitch (also known as the satin stitch) and the buttonhole stitch (also known as the blanket stitch).

Close-up of button hole stitch in machine applique. This is a decorative stitch that you want to see. Instead of matching the thread color to the background applique, the darker color was used to make the stitches stand out.

Make A Sampler of Machine Applique Stitches

Adjust the width and length of these stitches to get the look you want. Adjusting these two variables gives a different look in the stitches and on the applique.  The video below shows how to make a stitch sampler. Later, refer to the stitches on this sampler and use the settings that best fit your project.

Here is an excellent video on invisible machine applique from Connecting Threads. It shows how to choose the stitch you like best. It is also a great demonstration of how to stitch the applique.

Raw Edge Applique

Just as the name implies, raw edge applique has unfinished edges. Fuse the applique onto the background fabric. After fusing, the applique is stitched down using the stitch of your choice.

Using double sided fusible material, the applique fabric is fused to the background fabric. This method is called raw edge machine applique because the edges are not finished before decorative stitching is added. Here are the steps for preparing a piece for raw edge machine applique:

1. Transfer the applique design onto the paper side of the fusible material.
2. Using a hot iron, fuse the paper to the wrong side of the applique fabric.
3. Cut out the appliqué design. 
4. Remove the paper backing
5. Fuse the applique to the background.

Stitch around the raw edges of the applique to secure it to the background.

Preparing Raw Edge Machine Applique

The video below is a demonstration of how to prepare for raw edge machine applique using Heat N Bond Lite.

Tips for Raw Edge Machine Applique

The Fusible Product - You will need a double sided fusible product such as Heat N Bond Lite used in the video. Choose the lite version for cotton quilting fabric.

Transfer the Design - For symmetric designs, such as the heart, the design can be traced by placing the rough side of the fusible paper on top of the design. For non-symmetric designs, such as a number or letter the transfer process is different. Turn the design over and place the rough side of the fusible paper on the back. Use a light box or window to trace the design.

Fuse to Applique Fabric - Follow the manufacturer's instructions for using the product.  

Another video from Connecting Threads shows in detail how to stitch the buttonhole/blanket stitch on raw edge applique. The video is 8:48 minutes long but it shows how to stitch the inside and outside points. The method shown here can be used for any decorative stitch.

Turn Under Applique

This method is called turn under machine applique because the edges are turned under before decorative stitching is added.  In this article we will demonstrate two methods to prepare turn under machine applique. The first uses a product called Stitch-N-Peel. Glue is used to turn the edges under. The Stitch-N-Peel fabric is left in place after stitching. The second method uses freezer paper, Faultless Maxx Spray Starch and a hot iron to turn under the edges. Stitch-N-Peel is a product for machine applique. It is packaged in 8-1/2" x 11" sheets. One side of each sheet is a fabric-like material with sticky adhesive on the underside. A paper backing shields the adhesive until it's needed. Freezer paper can be found at your local grocery store. The two videos below show each method. Additionally, here are the steps for preparing a piece for turn under machine applique:

1. Transfer the applique design onto the Stitch-N-Peel or freezer paper.
2. For Stitch-N-Peel, remove the paper backing and stick the applique to the wrong side of the applique fabric. For Freezer paper, use a hot iron to temporarily adhere the paper to the wrong side of the applique fabric.
3. Cut out the applique design with a 1/4" seam allowance.
4. Turn under the seam allowance using glue or a hot iron.
5. For freezer paper, remove the paper from the applique.  Glue baste the applique in place on the background fabric.
6. Stitch around the raw edges of the applique to secure it to the background.

Preparing Turn Under Machine Applique with Stitch-N-Peel

The  next video shows how to prepare for turn under machine applique using Stitch-N-Peel.

Turn Under Machine Applique with Freezer Paper

Many moons ago I used the freezer paper method for hand applique. Hand stitch on the edge, though the fabric only. Remove the paper by making a slit in the background fabric under the applique. Machine applique is different because the stitches would most likely go well into the freezer paper. The freezer paper method shown in the next video uses Faultless Maxx spray starch to hold the fabric in place.

The picture below shows the freezer paper method with buttonhole stitch.

This is my first attempt at using freezer paper and Maxx spray starch. I like using freezer paper for simple, larger applique designs because the iron is easy to use for these. As you can see, the results are beautiful.

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